Blessing in a Box

As a young girl growing up in eastern Bhutan, Dema, 58, would see gomchens (lay monks) visit her village in Trashigang, carrying a decorated ceremonious box containing a sacred relic. Once the box was opened and the brocade drapes removed, it would show a miniature chorten with numerous small doors. The gomchens would pull out the corners of the chorten, like they would a door, and yet another multitude of miniature doors would unfold. The doors would open into a shape of a swastika, as if it would rotate clockwise if spun. The chorten would be mounted atop the box. Opening the miniature doors would reveal miniature statues of gods, goddesses and saints. As Dema and other curious children gathered around to take a peek at the miniature statues within the miniature doors and windows, the elders would prostrate, sit around and sing the mani, prayers devoted to Chenrizig. The monks would lead the elders in paying homage. Villagers would offer grain to the bearers of the box, and woven belts or namzha (clothes to drape the relic) to the chorten. The sacred box, known as Tashi Gomang, is a sort of a mobile temple that monks would carry from village to village, so that layfolk could seek its blessings. In Bhutan, there are four types of Tashi Gomang, each depicting the paradise of a god - Ngoen per gawa Tashi Gomang, dedicated to Sangay Shacha Thubpa; Dewachen, dedicated to Sangay Yoedpagmed; Rewotala, dedicated to Chenrizig (bodhisattva Avalokitesvara); and Zangtogpelri, dedicated to Guru Rinpoche. The Tashi Gomang is also believed to be an amalgamation of sacred nyes (holy sites), brought together by Buddha for the benefit of people. Looking at the Tashi Gomang was equivalent to seeing all the sacred nyes, which would cleanse all sins. Tashi Gomang literally means “chorten of multiple auspicious doors”, which symbolise doorways to all things good, like good thoughts and deeds. A Tashi Gomang has a maximum of 108 doors. It is one of the eight chortens representing various stages in Buddha’s life. In the villages, it was customary for residents to invite and host the group and the sacred relic at their home for a day. It was believed good fortune and blessings would visit the house and its members. Prosperity, good health and protection from curses. With each house wanting to host the relic, it would take days or weeks for the gomchens to start their journey to another place. For Dema, who now lives in Thimphu, these are childhood memories. It’s been ages since she’s seen a Tashi Gomang. It wasn’t a common sight when she were a child, but it was customary for gomchens to visit villages, and for the villagers to be aware and to expect the relic and bearers. Now, if Dema were to see a Tashi Gomang, she would have to visit a populated public area, like the weekend vegetable market, or the memorial chorten on auspicious days. Monks carrying it and traversing the countryside are now a rarity. Most bearers are old and, because of migration, rural houses are empty and the youth are engaged in education or seeking employment. Some Tashi Gomangs are believed to be locked away in temples, lacking volunteers to bear them. “Bhutan has developed,” gomchen Kuenzang Tenzin, 69, the caretaker of a lhakhang in Namseling, Thimphu, and a Tashi Gomang bearer for the past 15 years, said. “Society is changing, and this has led to numerous changes, including how bearers make Tashi Gomang accessible to the people.” But the changes had nothing to do with faith, according to the bearer. Even today, if taken to the villages, people pay respect, but the crowd is not like before. “And being old it’s difficult to carry it to the villages,” he said. “I can hardly take it to the memorial chorten twice a month.” Kuenzang Tenzin was living as a farmer in Trongsa when he volunteered to become a bearer. “Each dzongkhag is believed to have one Tashi Gomang each, making a total of 18,” he said. (Until recently, Bhutan had only 18 dzongkhags.) The one Kuenzang Tenzin bears is Wangduephodrang’s Dangla goenpa’s Tashi Gomang, believed to have been built by Zhabdrung Jigme Norbu about 300 years ago, who was the fourth reincarnation of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel. On auspicious days, like tshey chenga, and duezang, during which residents in Thimphu offer prayers, butter lamps and circumambulate the memorial chorten, Kuenzang carries the Tashi Gomang to the chorten. People now offer money, which Kuenzang collects and sends to Dangla goenpa. Because the Tashi Gomang was lying idle and locked up, Kuenzang Tenzin volunteered to take it places to reveal to people and make some collections. According to the gomchen, all 18 Tashi Gomangs in Bhutan are believed to be built under the order of Zhabdrung Jigme Norbu. At the memorial chorten, usually frequented by the elderly, gomchen Kuenzang usually gets cash offerings. “People prostrate and get blessings,” he said. “And, if one is interested and asks about the Tashi Gomang, I explain it to them.” Although Kuenzang Tenzin lives in Namseling, he keeps the Tashi Gomang in a relative’s home in Changidaphu, Thimphu. He travels by public transport from his home till the host’s place and then transports the relic by foot to the memorial chorten. “I keep it here because when I travel by taxi, other passengers mount their goods atop the Tashi Gomang. They are usually unaware,” he said. How did it come to Bhutan? It is believed that demons obstructed the construction of Punakha dzong, the fifth dzong Zhadrung Ngawang Namgyel built. Whatever was built during day was demolished at night. At that time, a khandum (angel), Dechen Gyem, appeared and instructed Zhabdrung to construct a Tashi Gomang at the site to subdue the demons. Zhabdrung asked his carpenters to construct a Tashi Gomang, but none of the carpenters knew how to build one. They had not seen or heard about it. The head of the carpenters informed Zhabdrung about a young carpenter, Balaypibu, who was gifted and could construct anything out of wood. The young carpenter was summoned and made to sleep behind Zhabdrung’s prayer table for three nights. But, before doing that, Zhabdrung summoned three local deities Yeshey Goempo, Langyoen and Pelden Lhamo, and asked them to take Balaypibu’s mind on a tour to Ralung, Tibet, to see the Tashi Gomang. After the third night, Zhabdrung summoned Balaypibu and asked him to explain his dream. Balaypibu said he saw the Zangtopelri in Ralung, Tibet. The carpenter was then ordered to construct a Tashi Gomang. Before dusk, he built the Tashi Gomang, and then approached Zhabdrung, asking how he’d fill the doors with statues. With his supernatural power, Zhabdrung built the statues and placed them within the miniature doors. As narrated by gomchen Kuenzang Tenzin Tashi Gomang’s initial formation Gomchen Drangsong was a man, who had gained a sense of detachment from all things worldly, like anger, jealousy and attachment to materials. His name Drangsong literally means detached and was derived from his character. Gomchen Drangsong had a daughter, Kandum Zhugkinim. As a test, the king of Tagzhinor asked her hand in marriage. Goemchen Drangsong told the king that, if he refused, it would destroy all that he’d worked and strived for. Saying so, he handed over his daughter to the king. A huge celebration followed and the daughter was taken away. The moment his daughter left him Drangsong was overcome with emotion. He climbed a hill to see his daughter leave. As they disappeared into the distance, he climbed a tree to get a better view, but he fell and died. When Drangsong died, out of his body, the precious Tashi Gomang emerged. As narrated by gomchen Kuenzang Tenzin How it came to earth It was a time of greed. There was no religion or faith. Evil was rampant. Buddha wanted to eradicate greed, anger, ignorance and arrogance, and make people feel the presence of god and goodness. To start with an appropriate preaching in Varanasi, Lord Buddha visited heaven, where he met Tegor, the king of the gods, who had five khandums. The five khandums instructed Buddha to visit gomchen Drangsong, who lived in a village of god called Tshangchen. A powerful and sacred religious instrument called Tashi Gomang, derived from Drangsong’s own body, was there. Buddha was told that it would help subdue every evil and, as he preached, if the Tashi Gomang could fly to Varanasi, it would help spread religion. Back in Varanasi, as Buddha preached, the Tashi Gomang flew down from heaven. As narrated by gomchen Kuenzang Tenzin Its architecture T he finesse of a craftman’s statue of gods or goddesses may be lacking, but the Tashi Gomang is still an architectural feat in the laypersons’ eyes. Weighing slightly over 20kg, the bronze,silver and gold plated wooden chorten folds in to a compact form. One can only guess that there is more than meets the eye. Each wall of the chorten has rows and columns of miniature doors with a metal circular ring to tug it open. Inside are housed small statues of gods and goddesses. Like the chorten, the golden statues are crude. As each wall opens, as would a door, rows and columns of doors appear again, each housing a statue each. The Guru Tshokey Dorji, sitting atop the chorten folds into the lotus petals and slides down into a cylindrical tube. A string is attached to the base of the lotus, with which the bearer tugs the statue out. The chorten, described here, is about three centuries old and the woodwork is giving way. The hinges of one wall are damaged and often the wall drops. Some of the miniature doors won’t budge, and adding pressure is out of the question since the doors look fragile. Some doors are missing, the paintings are old, as is the silk, which drapes the chorten. But, according to an elderly woman, being old meant it was more sacred and carried more blessings.. Source Kuensel (Bhutan's National Newspaper)

Your Travel Information to Bhutan

How to get in

Visa is needed for all the citizens except for the Indians and Bangladesh nationals. You have to apply one month in advance before your proposed date of entry in the country. One has to contact your local travel agents and they will apply the visa for you. To obtain the visa, you have to wire the money in advance to your local travel agent who will in turn send the money to the Tourism Council of Bhutan and upon receiving the payment your visa will be issued. You have to pay US$ 200 plus the surcharge of US$ 40 per person for nine days and after that a discount of US$ 10 per day. If the there are more than four people in a group, you do not have to pay surcharges.

The traffic is inclusive of all the facilities like hotels, guides, transportations, drivers and foods. The tourism policy is designed to control the number of tourists coming to Bhutan.

There are four legal entry points into Bhutan, by air at Paro airport, by road at the border with west Bengal at Phuntsholing, by road at the border with Assam at Gelephug in the centre and Samdrup Jongkhar

How to apply travel permit for Indians and Bangladeshis

You can apply for visa at any one of the entry points at the borders. You need one passport size photograph and identification document (passport, ration cards, Election ID) is needed along with the photocopy. You will take few hours to process the permit. The immigrations offices are located at the gates of the borders.

Climate

Climatic conditions on the mountains are always unpredictable, so it is useful to be prepared in case of difficult climatic conditions. For most of the regions the best seasons are in spring and autumn. In spring it is the season for flowers, most of the forest will be covered with different colored rhododendron flowers. It is little bit hot in lower altitude with some clouds on the mountains by afternoon.

The monsoon last from June to august. The autumn from September to December is the best time of the year with the sky always clear, it is little cold at night at higher altitude.

It can some time snow at the higher altitude and departure in the morning can get very cold. The temperature can be sometimes -5 to -10

Health

It is wise to get health insurance. Bhutan is categorized in the second zone when it comes to the risk of getting Malaria especially in the lower regions. It is more risky in summer i.e. from June to September. So if you are travelling in this period make it a point to take precaution.

But most of the visits and trekking are above 1400m so there are less chances of getting bitten by mosquitoes even in summer.

There is more risk of getting infected during the transit in Delhi, Katmandu and at borders with India.

It is advisable to carry anti- mosquitoes, like spray or some carry lemon grass oil.

When trekking, there are risk associated with altitude sickness and accidents. In case of emergencies there are dispensaries and hospitals in the districts.Food

Bhutanese food can be very spicy with chilies mixed in most of the dishes, but in most of restaurants and hotels the food are prepared suitable for foreigners, less spicy with the Bhutanese touch. Rice is served in all the meals and you can get all kinds of fresh vegetables and fruits.

Vaccination

Vaccination is not compulsory. But if you want, you can get vaccinated against typhoid and hepatitis A and B. A is caused because of the contaminated water and B is caused by sexual relationship and also by saliva.

Currency

Cash

It is advisable to carry cash, like dollars, euro, yen etc as it can be changed at any banks in the country. You can pay in dollars and in euro in any handicraft shops in Bhutan. The Bhutanese currency has the same value with the Indian currency and it is excepted all over the country.

Traveler chaques

It can be only changed in banks. So you can keep during emergency

Banking cards

Master cards are not accepted for the movement. Visa cards are accepted in most of the handicraft shops but bank will take 5% commissions from your purchase.

Communications

The telecommunications in Bhutan is well advanced. You can call from most of the places even during the trek. We can call to any parts of the world from any place in Bhutan.

To call from any hotels to any country other than India will cost about $ 4 per minute.

Internet

Some hotels are connected with wireless and some towns have internet café.

Mobile phones

You can use your cell phone from lot of places but sometimes it may not work as you are in a different zone with the different network.

Postal services

There are postal services in all the districts and sub districts. It cost Nu.20 to send a postcard from Bhutan to any countries other than India.

Shopping

There are some handmade objects like masks, bowls, wood carvings and religious painting of high qualities. Bhutan is known for its beautiful textiles. So you can find textiles made out of cotton, wool, silk, raw silk and even from yak hairs. There are some bamboo products like basket, tea strainer, mats and hats.

Some of the antiques are not allowed to take out of the country.

Drinks

Like most of the places in Asia Bhutanese drink lots of tea, like in India we mix milk and sugar or in a Tibetan style where we add butter and salt depending on ones choices.

In most of the places you can get mineral water, beers and juices.

Wines are sold in some restaurants and hotels at a price quite high. Bhutanese generally drink ara, alcohol distilled from different cereals.

Water

In general, we must consider water as not 100% safe to drink. It has to be treated systematically. In the hotels it is advisable to buy mineral water. Avoid washing your mouth with water from tap.

During the trek boiled water will be used but treatment is advisable.

Hike to Takshang/ Tiger's Nest

It is the hike which most Bhutanese wants to do once in their life time, as it is one of the holiest sites in Bhutan. The Buddhist believes that Guru Rimpoche, the founder of the Tantric form of Buddhism in Himalayan countries came to this place riding on the flying tigress.

There is another version of the story: The spiritual consort of Guru Rimpoche was meditating in one of the cave and to protect herself from wild animals and People, she transformed into tigress, thus, the name tiger's nest.

Whatever may the story once you get there you feel close to god or to Buddha.

It is located 600m above Paro valley. It looks as if it is hanged on the cliff. It is one of the wonders of Bhutan and without hiking there the visit to Bhutan is incomplete.

People say there are two ways to get there, one is by walking and the other is on the horses.

The Bhutanese prefer to walk as it is believed to accumulate more merits.

There are about five temples on can visit. The most important one is the cave where the Guru meditated. But the cave is opened to the public once in year during the special day.The hike from parking will take about 4 hours with a steep ascend through the forest till the view point. From there you have to walk down to the gully where there is a beautiful waterfall followed by about 20 minutes uphill to the security check point. You have to leave your cameras and cell phones

On the way back you can have lunch at the cafe where the food is cooked on the wooden oven. Since it is a holy site no meat is served.

Trek to the mysterious Land of Merak & Sakten

I had been fortunate to get a chance to explore these two villages of Merak and Sakten. i called this villages as mysterious land because it is the place full of legends and myths. it rare to find people so hospitable and so simple. The face of an old lady still lingers in my mind. she came to me and gave me a handful of boiled green peas and said,''you are visitor to our village and i could not find anything than this to give it to you''. i was so touched because it is rare to find someone who cares so much for others.

And this man who claimed to have seen Yeti is so interesting, he was demonstrating me how it walks and the sound it makes. i thought maybe the government's idea to preserve this area as the sanctuary for Yetis was right.

i was really happy to have met them and happy to know that tourism will bring them great benefits. But at the same time i was worried too. Their traditions and customs so unique may get exploited with the increase in visitors. when i went there in 2010, i saw lots of people lined up in front of only telephone booth, but this year i saw most of them with cellphones. And the electricity in few months, i hope they still preserve what is uniquely theirs.