Tuesday, December 27, 2011

New species sighted

December 25, 2011:(Thimphu) Forest officials have recently sighted rare bird and mammal species - a Ruddy Shelduck in Ura, a Gaur in Dangchu and a Takin in Thrumshingla National Park (TNP) - not seen earlier in these areas. The Ruddy Shelduck frequented Ura Valley but for over a decade the duck stopped coming and the cause is still unknown. “But last month the students of Ura Middle Secondary School spotted a lone female duck and kept it in a small pond managed by the nature club of the school,” said the Chief Forestry Officer of TNP, Ratu Wangchuk.

The duck (Tadorna ferruginea) is a member of the duck, goose and swan family Anatidae. It is protected under the Conservation of African-Eurasian Migratory Water Birds Agreement (AEWA).

On November 21, a team from Wildlife Conservation Division (WCD) visited Dangchu in Wangduephodrang to verify the new sighting of Gaur (Bos gaurus gaurus) - the two Gaurs were first spotted on November 10.

Gaur belongs to Bovidae family and of the three- subspecies recognized - B.gaurus gaurus, B. gaurus readei and B. gaurus hubackii, the first inhabits in Bhutan, India (South-West, Central and North-East) and Bangladesh.

Their population in Bhutan is believed to be shared with Bengal (North-West regions), Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. Their sightings were previously reported from the lowlands of Southern Bhutan (Royal Manas National Park, Phibsoo and Khaling Wildlife Sanctuaries) with elevation recorded at 1,500 meters.

The report also states that the recent sighting of this animal in the forested areas of Dangchu has raised the elevation range of its distribution in Bhutan to 2,390 meters and beyond. Further similar reports have come from roadside workers, who claim to have sighted a solitary animal in the summer of 2011 in Pelela and other areas.

The team confirmed one of the Gaur to be a matured bull while for the second confirmation is still awaited. The second could be a cow which if true would kindle hope for science to rejuvenate their population in that area. Locals speculate that the animals could have moved into their area from Dhur Tshachu, a remote area in Northern Bumthang.

However, the probability that the animals have moved up the valleys from the lowlands of Royal Manas National Park or Phipsoo Wildlife Sanctuary is high. Despite people’s claim of having seen these animals in other parts of the country, evidential observations are too few at the moment to draw any definite conclusion thus strongly recommending long term study.

Another sighting was of the Takin Budorcas taxicolor whitei at TNP.

WDC and TNP are carrying out an in depth study on the distribution of important and charismatic species (like tiger) inside the park.

The study is divided into several phases with the first one focused in the Northern Region where several camera traps have been set up along three randomly selected trails - Thrumshingla to Wangthangla, Shingkhar to Zhongmay and Tang to Ungar.

While monitoring the footage recorded in camera traps along the Tang to Ungar transect, Takin was one of the many important species captured by the cameras, making it the first photographed documentation of Takin in TNP, which eventually increased the list of park’s mammal listing from 69 to 70 species.

Takin is categorized as vulnerable by IUCN and listed under Schedule I, Forest and Nature Conservation Act 1995.

The other wildlife species documented in the camera traps in three months period include Clouded Leopard (Neofelis nebulosa), Red Panda (Ailurus fulgens fulgens), Himalayan Black Bear (Ursus thibetanus), and Himalayan Serow (Capricornis thar).

Footage of many ungulate species such as Sambhar, Barking Deer, Wild Dog, Wild Pig, Red Fox and Himalayan Crestless Porcupine were captured by the cameras, which indicate that a healthy population of prey thrives in the area.

Blood Pheasant, Kalij Pheasant and Black-Faced Laughing Thrush were in the footage. The park would continue to monitor the movement of these species through intensive use of camera traps with support from WCD.

“At some point of time, we hope to capture tiger and other species of importance which could not be encountered with the present effort,” said the Chief Forest Officer with WCD, Sonam Wangchuk.


Friday, September 16, 2011

Yeti or Lha-dhom - The Blue Bear


An elusive northern ursine oft mistaken for the legendary yeti

11 September, 2011 - In 2001, a hair believed to be that of the yeti was found in Bhutan. The team leader of the yeti expedition, Harry Marshall, got it tested in a laboratory in Oxford University. The world’s leading DNA expert, Professor Sykes, did the DNA sequencing and could not match it to any known species. 

Seven years later, the professor managed to match it, but to an unidentified bear. “… interestingly a bear that Professor Sykes was unable to identify,” Marshall said. The question was: could it have been the blue bear?
Blue Bear
The blue bear (Ursus arctos pruinosus) is a subspecies of the brown bear (Ursus arctos) and is now believed to be extinct. The bear is essentially black, but its coat has some tinge of blue. Like the blue pine tree, it is not blue in colour.
Its natural habitat is the alpine regions of eastern Tibet, western China, Nepal and it’s infrequently found in Bhutan. In Tibet, it was known as yak dhom or the yak bear. The Bhutanese refer it as the lha dhom or the mountain bear.
“The kings of Bhutan [third and fourth] have been fatally fascinated with the blue bear but none have seen it,” Malcolm Lyell, the former managing director of the  Holland Gun Company, wrote in his photo journal.
Lyell has the distinction of being the only European allowed to hunt for blue bear in Bhutan. During his trek in 1971, the king marked ‘Sanctuary, blue bear’ on his map, and he came close to tracking down the animal.
“We seem to have come closest to the blue bear at Tashi Markhang, (northern Bhutan), where we were told that they come into maize fields at night.” In addition, he wrote: “Both kings told me they killed baby yaks, and that the way to see or shoot one [the blue bear] was to tie up a baby yak at night,” wrote Lyell in his photo journal.
In Panchen Lama’s zoo
Lyell also became fascinated with the blue bear. He made two subsequent visits (1974, 1975), during which he discussed the animal with the fourth king. On both occasions, he trekked the mountains looking for the animal but was unsuccessful. When he returned home from the last trek, he did more research and sought the assistance Michael Aris, who knew both Tibet and Bhutan well.
“Here are a couple of photos of the so-called dremo in the Panchen Lama’s zoo in Zhigatse. (Photo enclosed on page 5). I’ve just copied them from Hugh Richardson’s own copies.” The letter also said: [This bear is] “the kind the Bhutanese called yakdom (‘yak bear’),” Aris wrote to Lyell on May 13, 1976. The original photos are in the Bell’s collection in the India Office library in London.
In a memorandum dated 20/8/76 of the Natural History museum, the yak bear was classified as part of the “brown bear group, Ursus arctos. It said that it was found all over the Palaearctic region. The note said that the two subspecies of the brown bear commonly found in the Himalayan region were the Ursus arctos isabellinus from India, Kashmir + Nepal (and probably also Bhutan), and Ursus arctos prunosus from Tibet and West China (Kansu). They are known as the red bear and the blue bear respectively.
Mountain Bear
The blue bear is known to live in high altitudes close to the tree line. Unlike the other bears found in the region, it often killed yaks, and hence the yak herders referred to it as the yak dhom (yak bear) or lha (mountain) dhom.
Bhutanese claimed to have seen the bear. In Punakha, Chencho (48) said that, 20 years ago, he had spent two months in the forests above Rangrikha village extracting timber to build his house. During this time, he saw two yakdhom. He said that these mountain bears live far from human settlement and generally avoid contact with humans.
Another man from Punkaha also claims to have seen the animal. Dawa (63), a cow herder, has spent most of his life in the forest with his cows. He said that he saw a lha dhom in Gurigang village, which is a full days walk from Kabisa. “These dhoms are no threat to humans. They’re shy animals. They’ve never attacked any of my cattle,” he said.
Blue Bear - Yeti?
While the blue bear was common in the Himalayas, little of it was known in the west through fur, and bone samples and some photos. It was first classified in 1854, but evidence of its existence was found almost a century later.
In 1960, Sir Edmund Hillary led an expedition in Nepal to search for evidence of the yeti. He returned with two scraps of fur, which the locals identified to be that of the yeti. Later, when it was scientifically tested, it was found to be portions of the pelt of a blue bear.
The other cartographic evidence of the mountain bear in Bhutan is an educational map made by UNICEF. In the undated map, Chart No 3, “Some animals of Bhutan”, the artist Dorothy Mierow drew a cub of the blue bear with red bear on the north west part of Bhutan.
Conclusion 
Many of the yak herders in Bhutan claimed to have seen the bear. The only evidence to support its existence could be the hair that was found in Bhutan, which Professor Sykes has recently been able to match it to a bear, but an unidentified one.
The Europeans, who looked for the yeti, like Sir Edmund Hillary, Reinhart Messner and now Marshall, have all suggested the blue bear as a possible explanation of the yeti.
In the National Library in Thimphu, there is an ancient script that describes the yeti to be a kind of bear.  Bhutan may be the last sanctuary of the blue bear.
Source: Kuensel

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

The merak-sakteng dream


The twin valleys of Merak and Sakteng have opened its closed doors to tourism but most semi-nomadic highlanders are uncertain if this is at all the way forward for the largely arcane communities
Majestic snow clad mountains surround the valleys. Oblivious to the approaching wind of change, a herd of yaks graze nonchalantly on the lush green meadows. Children with apple-red cheeks sporting blue gumboots run after a football. Except for the usual evening carousals in the few bars that dot the highland settlement, all is quiet in this eastern front.
Yet, a silent undercurrent of change is about to crash the shores of these arcane valleys. The lost land of the Yeti is at a crucial juncture of transformation.
Comfortable in their own culture and way of life, the brokpas are not sure how this marauding transition will impact their lives. Known to be fiercely conservative and rugged, they are uncertain how they should welcome this change, if at all. 
The highlanders have expressed subdued willingness and interest to open up to tourism. This was evident during a meeting between officials from the Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB), tour operators, Sakteng park officials, local leaders and the brokpas.
While officials made presentations and discussed at length about tourism and its benefits, brokpas were lost in their own interactions. Children played around, women tended to wailing babies, and impatient elders moved in and out of the small stone built meeting hall. Among those who attended the meeting, only few were interested and participated in the meeting.
Where numbers of cattle and stock of firewood heaped outside the house is the measure of wealth, the brokpas say they are happy with their traditional way of life that they have followed for centuries. 
Some of the brokpas said, “they are not sure how tourism will help them and what they were supposed to do”. Some were of the view that it might affect their traditional lifestyles and feared that their strong arcane way of life could be diluted with exposure to an overdose of outside culture.
Although a survey done by TCB showed that about 97% of the interviewees were interested in the tourism business, a year after it was opened to tourism, brokpas seemed to have turned their backs. This, officials say, could be because of their heightened awareness on the impacts of tourism. This might be a call for the government to re-think about opening up Merak and Sakteng as a community based eco-tourism destination, said the official.
 Few were also of the view that a new survey was necessary.
Though Merak and Sakteng were officially opened last year in September with few tourists having already been to the place, the idea of tourism business still is a new concept for the brokpas.
Ngawang Gyeltshen, park manager of Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary, said, “The people are not prepared to welcome the tourists because they worry if they get into tourism then people will have to leave their normal lives.”
“We were worried and we are still worried that people of Merak and Sakteng are not prepared to welcome tourists,” said the park manager.
However, the few that were interested in the business were very enthusiastic about it. Two of them are Nima and Dawa, the only twins in Merak. They said opening up of Merak to foreigners was possibly the best thing that would have happened to the people. “Earlier there was nothing but now with lots of developmental activities taking place we expect our lives to be better,” said Dawa.
For him the idea of promoting home stays was the best because it would give them an opportunity to know people up-close and personal.
Meanwhile, few tour operators present in Merak and Sakteng say the place could be the most expensive tourist destination in Bhutan. This is bound to happen given the high cost potter and pony, local guides and pass fees compared to other places in Bhutan.
Earlier the rate for local guides was decided at Nu 500 a day, potter and pony charges at Nu 300 plus 10% service charge. In addition a tourist has to pay an extra Nu 1,000 as fee to enter Merak and Sakteng. In other tourist hotspots like Paro and Haa, local guides charge Nu 150 a day, and potter and pony cost Nu 200 plus 10% service charge a day. There is no pass fee requirement for tourists visiting other parts of the country. “If the Merak and Sakteng people are paid this high, the word will spread to other people and they will start charging high too,” says a tour guide.
Surprisingly, the cost of goods is not exorbitant as expected. A bottle of Druk 11,000 costs Nu 70 in Merak and Sakteng. Apart from racks full of liquor products, the shops in these rural hamlets also sell Thai tin fish and milk powder.
Though the highlanders do not necessarily earn in cash they are rich in terms of income compared to many other gewogs connected by road. Some of the rich residents claim that they have stored basic supplies that will last for about 20 years. Less than 25% of the people here earn minimum cash income of Nu 9,000 a month. The brokpas are not frivolous spenders either as traditional barter system is still practiced. To the extent that the four shops in Sakteng still barter, where people take goods from the shop and in return leave yak cheese and butter. Those who earn by working in construction sites have also opened saving accounts in the banks.
Next month about 100 tourists will be visiting the twin valleys and preparation is in the full swing.  Dema Tshering from Sakteng is anticipating the tourist arrival. He said tourism business will help them in terms of horse business, selling of jewelries and entertainment. “Through these activities we will be able to make a little extra income for ourselves,” he added. “Once they see how much money is involved in the tourism business then the rest will automatically follow our league.’
The opening of Merak and Sakteng to tourists is also expected to cut down brokpas dependency on livestock. About 82% of the population depends on livestock and farming. 
Merak and Sakteng is also the only place in the country where water burial is practiced. The valleys of brokpas are also rife with tales of Yeti, the abominable snowman.
Sakteng has a population of 2,072 and 1,612 in Merak, out of with 36% of them have never seen a tourist or foreigner.
 Source: Business Bhutan

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Long Road to School

Dechen Zangmo and Tshering Phuntsho returning from school

Lhuentse: For some children in the east, the road to education is long and arduous. For them, education is hours of walk away from their homes.

When most Bhutanese would be still in bed, the day starts for two little children from Gorgan, a roadside settlement in Lhuentse. Their school is more than five kilometres away from their home.

Six-year-old Tshering Phuntsho and his 10-year-old sister, Dechen Zangmo, wake up at the crack of dawn at 4. By 6, they start their daily walk to Kupingyelsa Community Primary School. The school starts at 8.30 am, and it’s more than two hours before the bell rings. But between their home and school lies five kilometres of road. They walk as fast as they can but there is only so much their little legs can do. Sometimes, they are late for the morning assembly.

Sometimes, when they are lucky, the children can hitch a ride in a passing car which is a rare sight on the Mongar-Lhuentse highway. They mostly walk to and from school.

Tshering Phuntsho tends to get playful on the road. He often scurries off the road to pluck a leaf or throw a stone at chirping birds. He is cheerfully oblivious to the physical exertion. Dechen, who has to carry a basket containing two lunch packs and two water bottles on top of her school bag, prods her brother on. However, when her brother becomes unmanageable, they get late to school.

“Sometimes, I become so tired that I have to sit for a while before joining the assembly,” Dechen said. “I tell my brother not to play and run around on the road.”

The siblings say coming home in the evening is easier because they do not have to worry about getting late. Their classes are over at 3 pm. They immediately start their walk back and reach home at around 5.30 pm or 6 pm.

The mother of the siblings, Tashi Yangzom, says despite the tiring daily walk, the children never complain about it. “There has never been a day when they did not want to go to school,” she said. “They are always excited to go to school.”

Tashi said sometimes the children come home so tired that they fall asleep even before eating dinner.

Dechen was once sent to Phuentsholing with Tashi’s sister so that she could go to a nearby school. After her aunt was transferred and Tshering Phuntsho was admitted to school, Dechen had to come back to Gorgan. Her little brother needed a friend and guide.

Three children from Gorgan walk to Kupingyelsa CPS.

Every day, when the children leave for school, their parents warn them of falling boulders, landslides and speeding vehicles.

Tashi Yangzom and her husband, who is an employee of Food Corporation of Bhutan, cannot reach their children to school every day. But when it rains, either of them walks the children to school.

One of the campaign promises of Druk Phunsum Tshogpa was to ensure that no child walks more than an hour to school. More than three years on, children walking for hours to school are common in the east.

Source: Bhutan Observer

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Thimphu Bhutan

Why Thimphu is unique?

The answers are, Thimphu is one of the youngest capital cities in the world. It has the reputation of being the only capital city with no traffic lights. It has only one long street and two half streets and most people are still foreign to the street names. And it has only one commercial swimming pool.

Thimphu has grown since 1950s when the third king decided to move the capital permanently here. It has grown from few buildings to the most populated city in Bhutan and currently it houses over 80000 people. It has become the dream of the most of the rural Bhutanese people to settle there. It is the home to the richest people in Bhutan. Most of the people living here are civil servants, business people and students.

There are lots of interesting things to do in Thimphu.

Walk down to the national stadium and witness the archery match. Be careful, if you are watching this game for the first time, you will wonder where they are shooting at if you are at one end and if you are at the other end you will wonder to whom they are shouting at.

Drive little bit towards the west and meet the takins, the national animal of Bhutan, with its unique features, it is an animal unique to Bhutan.

It is also interesting to visit the painting school or called as the school of thirteen arts and crafts. Bhutanese houses are decorated with beautiful paintings, and the dzongs or fortress are the most beautiful architecture wonders of the country. Dzongs are the best places to see all those thirteen arts and crafts. Painting school is the best place to learn about those architectural wonders.

Do not miss the Tashichoedzong, headquarter of the country. It is the biggest building in Thimphu. It houses the office of the King, some ministers and also the residence of the chef spiritual leader and the monks in summer.

It is also interesting to stall around the town and visit some shops. Almost all the shops sell the same thing, but I think the businesses are done based on relationships.

There lots of restaurants in the town. They serve all kinds of food, Chinese, Indians, Thai, Japanese and Bhutanese.

If you want to try Bhutanese, be careful what you are ordering, do not except to eat Bhutanese food without chilies. By the way, chilies cheese is the national dish.

For the nocturnals, there are few night clubs which are opened on Wednesdays and week days. Most of bars and restaurants are open till 11pm.

There are lots of day hikes in and around Thimphu.

Hike to Phajoding and to the lake of Dungtsho. It is quit challenging as it is steep uphill, but it is an opportunity to go above tree level in a short period of time. The round trip will take about 10 hours.

Drive for about 17km and hike to the Buddhist University at Tango. It has the most beautiful paintings and wood carvings. Or hike to the meditation centre at Cheri. The Shabdruing Ngawang Namgyel, the lama who founded Bhutan started his first monastic school in this place with 60 monks in 1623.

Thimphu with the construction boon, it has become the fastest growing city in the world.

Phajoding Temple














Archery

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Myth and memory

When the world has dismissed the yeti as a myth, many in Bhutan still believe in its existence. Our folk tales are loaded with stories of this hairy animal and the elders can recount numerous anecdotes with such consistency and conviction that it is hard not to believe in it.

Like the myth of the yeti, our country is filled with similar myths and half of our lives are immersed in it. Our oral stories are packed with legends of speaking statues, folklores injected with stories of airborne daggers and flying tigress. Many of these myths have become part of our lives, shaping our minds and the belief systems.

Some Bhutanese believe that epileptic seizure occurs only on auspicious days, such as the full moon while majority of us know that this is a myth.

So, what is myth? We know it is imagined reality or subjective truth.

If that is the case, why do people believe in it? The Bhutanese psychologist gives two reasons. For example, if we take the case of the epileptic seizure, people have been convinced through stories and their memory has recorded this subjective truth. The second likely reason is that they have drawn conclusion from their own analysis or arrived at one based on their experience allowing their minds to believe that auspicious days trigger epileptic seizure and when it does the memory will selectively store it and remember this one incident. It is normal for majority of the people to select what they like to believe in. So no matter how absurd a belief is, it is hard for anyone to convince otherwise.

Myth and memory

Memory helps reinforce myth. For example, many of us will remember eating a delicious meal as a child. To a certain extent this is a myth – it was just an experience. If you eat this same meal again, it will not be half as delicious as the one in the memory. It is hard to re-create the same pleasure.

It is also like a drug addict, who enjoyed the first rush, which has been stuck in his head forever. To re-experience the rush, he takes increasing doses only to find that it is not possible to create that first kick. He knows that he will never be able to experience the initial pleasure, yet will continue to do so with the hope of re-living that first experience. Memory lets the abuser chase the experience not realizing that the first time experience was a myth because there is nothing like that outside the memory helping reinforce myths.

Self-fulfilling prophesy

It is a common tradition for Bhutanese to perform rituals when one gets sick. Now the first question the scientific mind will ask is, “How can a monk help you get well?” But, the bigger question is if we get well then what? Psychologists call this Self-fulfilling Prophesy.

To make the point clearer, let us take another example. When we embark on a long journey, it is common tradition in Bhutan to toss a coin from the first bridge we cross. This is done with the hope that it will ensure safe passage and help you get to the destination safely.

Now, the question is, “Does it works?” Well most of the time it does. We know throwing a coin to reach a destination safely is a myth so the critical mind may ask, “Then how come?”

In the words of the Bhutanese psychologist, throwing the coin gives you confidence that all will be well. This is again an example of Self-fulfilling Prophesy, which helps reinforce the belief system, and it is not necessarily based on science and data.

Origin of myths

Myths flourish in societies where literacy rate is low or in places where realities of life are difficult and imposing. For example, in mountainous country like ours, natural environment is formidable and often harsh that it makes it difficult to appreciate nature, so myths are created to give us that power to help us survive, and cope with the formidability or adversities.

Role of myths

In a mountainous country, myths play an important role in the culture. According to psychologist, it reinforces the belief system of a society, assists a community to believe in natural causes and imbibes inspiration to live meaningful lives. Myths and memory help us survive so we create them making our lives more secure, content and fulfilling.

Significance of myths

The biggest advantage of myth and memory is the way it shapes our mind and defines our lives.

For example, Bhutanese revere the 8th century mystic, Guru Padmasambhava. To many of us, although the mystique is long gone, we live our lives as if he is with us. Most of us start our days making daily offerings to him and wherever we go we see images of him and it is hard to escape his presence. Many follow his instructions and they have a direct impact on our lives.

For example, the recent act on tobacco that stirred many souls is the direct result of Guru’s teaching. He was one of the first to oppose the abuse of substances that influence the consciousness. In a block print dating back to around 800 A.D., he strongly protests against the vice of alcohol consumption and the ills of smoking. The foreign word “tobacco” is mentioned in his protest. In later times, tobacco was mixed with rhubarb leaves before smoking.

Let us take the example of Guru Rinpoche where he is put on the back of a tigress and flown to Taktshang monastery. This is an example of subjective truth or imagined reality, depending on who perceives the story.

Impossible events like this un-natural incident is what you call a miracle or in a deeper sense wisdom which is equated to something bigger than man.

World leading mythologist, Devdutt, who was recently in the country, said, “the Tigress represents nature and Guru is the wisdom. Nature willingly bows to wisdom, which is often not the case, as normally humans try and control nature.”

Important for culture

Belief system is important not only for an individual but also for the culture. If it is lost then people become shallow and society’s belief becomes hollow. This is when people start looking outside spirits and beyond themselves and the community for inspiration and excitement. The risk is that people will indulge in mind-altering substance more; we are already seeing more abuse of alcohol and drugs as people try to get that kick.

Myths help keep us under a spell and certain subjugation and confine us within some boundary.

There is no argument that myth is subjective truth or imagined reality yet our Himalayan kingdom is replete with it. With a natural environment so formidable, yet so surreal, we need myths to help us survive, face the wrath of nature more gracefully and appreciate its beauty in its full splendor.

Myths help reinforce the culture and empower individuals and instill confidence in the community to provide the sense of security and fulfillment. It is for this that we should allow yetis to prowl in our mountains, let statues to speak and believe that Guru rode on the back of a tigress. After all, what is the harm?

Source: Bhutan observer

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

The wild Lunana Snowman Trek

The most exceptional Snowman Trek, with its reputation as being the most difficult trek in the world. It goes through the chains of Himalayan Mountains with the distance covering about 350kms. In average of about 4000m of altitude and you will be crossing not less than 12 high passes and about four of them over 5000m. You will be thrilled to by the panoramas which are offered in front of your eyes and meeting with the villages and semi- nomads. You will be crossing several lost villages in the Himalayas and the dzongs isolated built on the top of rocky cliffs of the most inaccessible places in the world.

Departure from Paro, you will reach Jangothang at the base of Jomolhari (7325m) and Jichu Drakey (7000m). Here you will be penetrating through the country of Semi- nomads which goes as high as the level of snow with their yaks. After Lingshi village, you will continue crossing the mountains till Laya where the people are known for their clothes made out of yak hairs and pointed hats made out of bamboos. The women keep their hairs long and put on the necklaces of turquoises and jade. Continue towards the east, you will be crossing the charming villages of Woche and Thanza and proceed till the base of Gangkar Punsum (7541m) highest mountain of Bhutan. After crossing several passes, you will arrive in the enchanting valley of Bumthang.

It is the itinerary for the people who are passionate about Himalayas and for the great trekkers who wants to go out of the bitten trails. It is the unforgettable tour in the country which is less known in the planet and the snowman trek is above all of your reach.


25 days of trekking: Level of trekking

The level of this itinerary is very less frequented and challenging. The average altitude above 4000m and crossing lots of passes needs excellent physical conditions. You will be crossing the region which is the most difficult to access in the country. It is because of that, you need very good esprit before the starting of this trek.

The baggage will be transported by the horses, mules, yaks and sometimes by the people. Solid and unforgettably experienced local team will be accompanying you. The participants should be extraordinarily adventurous with good physical conditions and great experience in trekking.


Tuesday, May 24, 2011

The Royal Wedding


His Majesty the King announced to the nation at the opening of the 7th session of parliament today that he will marry in October this year. “As King, it is time for me to marry. After much thought I have decided that the wedding shall be later this year,” His Majesty announced.

Before revealing the name of the future Queen of Bhutan, His Majesty said, “Now, many will have their own idea of what a Queen should be like – that she should be uniquely beautiful, intelligent and graceful. I think with experience and time, one can grow into a dynamic person in any walk of life with the right effort.” What is most important for Queen, His Majesty said, is that at all times, as an individual, she must be a good human being, and as Queen, she must be unwavering in her commitment to serve the people and country.

“As my queen, I have found such a person and her name is Jetsun Pema,” His Majesty announced. “While she is young, she is warm and kind in heart and character. These qualities together with the wisdom that will come with age and experience will make her a great servant to the nation.”

Jetsun Pema, the future Queen of Bhutan, was born in Thimphu on June 4, 1990. She received her education from Regents College in London, the UK; the Lawrence School, Sanawar, in Himachal Pradesh and St. Joseph’s Convent in Kalimpong, India; and Changangkha Lower Secondary School and Lungtenzampa Middle Secondary School in Thimphu, Bhutan.

Jetsun Pema’s father, Dhondup Gyaltshen, is the grandson of Trashigang Dzongpon Dopola. Her mother, Sonam Chuki, comes from the family of Bumthang Pangtey. Jetsun Pema has two brothers and two sisters. She is the second eldest.

His Majesty said that his wedding with Jetsun Pema did not mean that he was starting his own family. “From the very day I received the Dhar Ngay-Nga [five-coloured scarves] from the sacred Machhen, the people of the 20 Dzongkhags became my family,” His Majesty said, adding that such is the duty and privilege of all Kings of Bhutan.

“It is through this union that I shall have a Queen who will support, and work with me, as I serve the People and Country,” His Majesty said.

His Majesty announced that the wedding will be in accordance with age-old tradition, to seek the blessings of the guardian deities. He, however, said, “I ask the government not to make any plans for a grand celebration. The happiness of my beloved father and the blessings of our People will give me the greatest joy and happiness.”

In recent times, Jetsun Pema has begun to accompany His Majesty on royal tours around the country.

In the parliament hall, Prime Minister Jigmi Y Thinley and the members of parliament expressed their happiness on the announcement of the royal wedding and highlighted the pivotal role of the Throne in Bhutanese nationhood. They offered good wishes to the future queen of Bhutan.

Outside the parliament hall, a wave of excitement and joy swept across the country as the people of 20 dzongkhags watched His Majesty announce his wedding on live television. The feeling of joy at the news is palpable on every faces.

In the capital, the news of royal wedding is a talking point wherever – in the offices, on the streets, in hotels, bars and restaurants.

Source: Bhutan observer

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Of unearthly powers in archery


A tsip(astrologer) works hard from a shady room in a secret location. Colourful flags gently swayed in the autumn breeze and the Lingkana archery range looked resplendent in the glorious morning sun.
The playfield stood ready to witness history: a clash of the titans, between 13-sided royal team of dashos and the Royal Body Guard sharpshooters of the day.

The year was 1968. And the match had unique stakes.

Three most powerful tsips (oracles, of sorts) of the time — Geshe Dotey from Haa, Jagathang from Paro, and Tsing Tsing from Shaa — were summoned to support the royal team. The RBG team had none; they were also not allowed to perform rituals.

The match, presided over by the four Lopens of Zhung Dratshang, was set to test the practicality and the power of tsips during the archery match.

The tsips were seated close by the archery range with their crafts and tools. If they proved their supernatural prowess, a brand new jeep each and Nu 2,500 worth of coins awaited them. But then, alongside squatted a bucketful of boiling rice froth, rather ominously. If the tsips failed and the royal team was defeated, the hot froth would be poured down their heads.

Midway through the day, the RBG team sealed the fate of the tsips with a comprehensive thrashing of the royal team. And that’s the story of a bucketful of rice froth on the heads of three powerful tsips. From then on, tsips were not encouraged in the archery tournaments.

However, today, some three decades down the line, and despite the resolution passed by the National Council in 2010 banning motab-tsita-rimdo (astrological predictions and other rituals) during archery matches, the tradition of hiring tsips is still alive. Tsips still play an indispensable role during archery matches. But the whole affair is shrouded in secrecy.

Like any other archery tournament, the ongoing Jigme Dorji Wangchuck Memorial Archery Tournament is no stranger to the tradition of motab-tsita-rimdo.

Every morning, archers refuse to enter the range in fear that the rival archers will cross their entry path following a tsip’s instructions.

An eyewitness points out an instance during one of the semi-finals when a team amassed an unbelievable 20 points within an hour after their tsip showed up at the range in a drunken stupor.

The tradition of invoking protective deities from secluded monastic places while the archers sleep together with their bows and arrows at the altar is still ceremoniously followed.

Sleeping with women or letting them touch the archery equipment are avoided at all cost. The place of invocation is kept a secret to keep the rival tsip from counter invocation. Believe it or not, the fiercest rivalry in olden days went to the extent of serious physical injuries and often cost lives.

One Dendup Tshering believes his father’s poor eyesight and shaky fingers are the result of a tsip’s work. His father Rinchenla was a renowned sharpshooter while in the army.

“Involving tsips and unearthly powers during archery matches is part of our culture,” said 70-year-old Ap Dorji, who stopped plying the trade a decade ago. “The rituals also included warding off misfortunes and we were paid in grains contributed by all the villagers.”

He recollects the magnitude of a tsip’s work having its highs and lows. He says he has heard and witnessed the catastrophic anecdotes believed to be the result of tsips’ works. And yet, he also concedes it all probably could have been a coincidence.

Chodha between the two fiercest rivals used to be the chief battle of tsips during the olden days. Now it is the battle of riches, according to Ap Dorji.

Gyem Tshering, a sponsor and player in team Druk Chapcha Construction, one of the finalists of the ongoing Jigme Dorji Wangchuck Memorial Archery Tournament, said his team follows Khandugi Jhulam—the movement of the dakinis in specific direction which varies daily.

But every night in some part of Thimphu, archers remain awake the entire night performing rituals, hurling curses at the fire, and invoking the blessings of their deities. And this tradition of invoking unearthly powers for victory is said to be creeping into other games like football and basketball.

Bhutan Archery Federation prohibits such practice.

“If anything suspicious occurs on the range or if the opposing team complains with proof, then we act,” said Jurmin Wangdi, the assistant secretary general of traditional archery.

Source: Bhutan Observer.

Monday, May 2, 2011

Meet the people, the Festivals of Bhutan

The Paro Dzong and the town behind
Bhutan is the last living Mahayana Buddhist country in the world. The Buddhism was brought to Bhutan by the revered saint Guru Padmasamva, since than it had flourished in the country. The Tshechu festivals are to honor this great saint. It is the time when the dzongs and monasteries come to the live once in a year.
The Black hat dance
The dances are the mystical teachings and manifested mandalas of Buddhism in real life.

The Charming clown
For an individual to simply be present and see these sacred dances, and experience them with right mindset and pure intention is considered an auspicious opportunity.

The Devotees

It is the time, when people from all works of live leave behind their busy schedules and try to be the part of these great events. Being part of it is believed to gain spiritual merits. The festivals are Buddhist inspirations to the public in order to provide both teachings and direct experiences related to the path towards enlightenment.


The Durda Chham
Dancer in deep meditation

The colorful Machham