The twin valleys of
Merak and Sakteng have opened its closed doors to tourism but most semi-nomadic
highlanders are uncertain if this is at all the way forward for the largely
arcane communities
Majestic
snow clad mountains surround the valleys. Oblivious to the approaching wind of
change, a herd of yaks graze nonchalantly on the lush green meadows. Children
with apple-red cheeks sporting blue gumboots run after a football. Except for
the usual evening carousals in the few bars that dot the highland settlement,
all is quiet in this eastern front.
Yet, a
silent undercurrent of change is about to crash the shores of these arcane
valleys. The lost land of the Yeti is at a crucial juncture of transformation.
Comfortable
in their own culture and way of life, the brokpas are not sure how this
marauding transition will impact their lives. Known to be fiercely conservative
and rugged, they are uncertain how they should welcome this change, if at
all.
The
highlanders have expressed subdued willingness and interest to open up to
tourism. This was evident during a meeting between officials from the Tourism
Council of Bhutan (TCB), tour operators, Sakteng park officials, local leaders
and the brokpas.
While
officials made presentations and discussed at length about tourism and its
benefits, brokpas were lost in their own interactions. Children played around,
women tended to wailing babies, and impatient elders moved in and out of the
small stone built meeting hall. Among those who attended the meeting, only few were
interested and participated in the meeting.
Where
numbers of cattle and stock of firewood heaped outside the house is the measure
of wealth, the brokpas say they are happy with their traditional way of life
that they have followed for centuries.
Some of the
brokpas said, “they are not sure how tourism will help them and what they were
supposed to do”. Some were of the view that it might affect their traditional
lifestyles and feared that their strong arcane way of life could be diluted
with exposure to an overdose of outside culture.
Although a
survey done by TCB showed that about 97% of the interviewees were interested in
the tourism business, a year after it was opened to tourism, brokpas seemed to
have turned their backs. This, officials say, could be because of their heightened
awareness on the impacts of tourism. This might be a call for the government to
re-think about opening up Merak and Sakteng as a community based eco-tourism
destination, said the official.
Few
were also of the view that a new survey was necessary.
Though Merak
and Sakteng were officially opened last year in September with few tourists
having already been to the place, the idea of tourism business still is a new
concept for the brokpas.
Ngawang
Gyeltshen, park manager of Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary, said, “The people are
not prepared to welcome the tourists because they worry if they get into
tourism then people will have to leave their normal lives.”
“We were
worried and we are still worried that people of Merak and Sakteng are not
prepared to welcome tourists,” said the park manager.
However, the
few that were interested in the business were very enthusiastic about it. Two
of them are Nima and Dawa, the only twins in Merak. They said opening up of
Merak to foreigners was possibly the best thing that would have happened to the
people. “Earlier there was nothing but now with lots of developmental
activities taking place we expect our lives to be better,” said Dawa.
For him the
idea of promoting home stays was the best because it would give them an
opportunity to know people up-close and personal.
Meanwhile,
few tour operators present in Merak and Sakteng say the place could be the most
expensive tourist destination in Bhutan Bhutan
Earlier the
rate for local guides was decided at Nu 500 a day, potter and pony charges at
Nu 300 plus 10% service charge. In addition a tourist has to pay an extra Nu
1,000 as fee to enter Merak and Sakteng. In other tourist hotspots like Paro
and Haa, local guides charge Nu 150 a day, and potter and pony cost Nu 200 plus
10% service charge a day. There is no pass fee requirement for tourists
visiting other parts of the country. “If the Merak and Sakteng people are paid
this high, the word will spread to other people and they will start charging
high too,” says a tour guide.
Surprisingly,
the cost of goods is not exorbitant as expected. A bottle of Druk 11,000 costs
Nu 70 in Merak and Sakteng. Apart from racks full of liquor products, the shops
in these rural hamlets also sell Thai tin fish and milk powder.
Though the
highlanders do not necessarily earn in cash they are rich in terms of income
compared to many other gewogs connected by road. Some of the rich residents
claim that they have stored basic supplies that will last for about 20 years.
Less than 25% of the people here earn minimum cash income of Nu 9,000 a month.
The brokpas are not frivolous spenders either as traditional barter system is
still practiced. To the extent that the four shops in Sakteng still barter,
where people take goods from the shop and in return leave yak cheese and
butter. Those who earn by working in construction sites have also opened saving
accounts in the banks.
Next month
about 100 tourists will be visiting the twin valleys and preparation is in the
full swing. Dema Tshering from Sakteng is anticipating the tourist
arrival. He said tourism business will help them in terms of horse business,
selling of jewelries and entertainment. “Through these activities we will be
able to make a little extra income for ourselves,” he added. “Once they see how
much money is involved in the tourism business then the rest will automatically
follow our league.’
The opening
of Merak and Sakteng to tourists is also expected to cut down brokpas
dependency on livestock. About 82% of the population depends on livestock and
farming.
Merak and
Sakteng is also the only place in the country where water burial is practiced.
The valleys of brokpas are also rife with tales of Yeti, the abominable
snowman.
Sakteng has
a population of 2,072 and 1,612 in Merak, out of with 36% of them have never
seen a tourist or foreigner.
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